Archive for the ‘Hardware’ Category

Socket 1366 (i7/Xeon) Workstation motherboards

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

I’m waiting for a decent dual socket Core i7 or same generation Xeon motherboard to come out from a good manufacturer, such as Asus.

It seems to just be Intel, Tyan and Supermicro boards so far. Asus lists a couple of P6T boards (P6T6 WS, P6T7 WS) but nothing dual socket yet.

Come to think of it, I wonder what the limit for the number of sockets/cores/threads you can put in Windows 7 is, since Core i7 is 4 cores/8 threads each so dual socket would be 8 cores, 16 threads.

Anyway, if I’m missing something here someone let me know :)

Update: Puget build some nice stuff but I’m sure you can get roughly the same performance for much less than $16,000.
- $16,000 4 socket 16 core Operteron PC (more photos)
- 8 socket 32 core Opteron PC (via daughter board)

I’m getting envious of other systems and I haven’t even built this one yet.

Update 2: EVGA’s Classified SR-2 seems to finally meet these needs, although at a major price tag of $600 (which probably means €600 and £600 too)
EVGA Classified SR-2

Update 3: Overclockers UK will start selling this on 1 July 2010 for a ridiculous (as predeicted) £550. However, beware when using this site. I have had problems returning clearly faulty goods to them before (specifically a £400+ HD4870X2 that could not render 3D), which pretty much means you should assume this website has no return policy whatsoever.

It will also only run Xeons anyway which probably puts overclocking off the table, and means you’re only buying this if you want 2-4 graphics cards. I just got a Tyan S7002AG2NR instead and will get a dual-GPU graphics card (a dual GPU fermi if that ever comes out).

Update 4: NEVER buy a Tyan product
The above link for Tyan’s motherboard clearly claims that the board supports “Intel Xeon Processor 5500/ 5600 Series” CPUs, has an icon for 32nm (5600 series) CPUs at the top and also “six core” (5600 series only). However, the board itself does not support 5600 series CPUs at all. Tyan’s idea of “support” for this problem is to tell me to buy 5500 series CPUs instead.

I received the following messages from “Kevin” at Tyan support:
“The 5620 processors are not compatible. Please try a supported processor from our CPU compatibility list”

When I pointed out that 5600 compatibility is clearly listed on their product page, I received the following response:
“The CPU compatibility chart does not specifically state the 5620 as a supported processor for this, or any of the other 7XXX-series motherboards. The board was designed to support the 5600-series processors in the future, but will most likely require a CPU micro-coding update. I highly advise you to obtain a supported processor from our validated list.”

Note that the “CPU compatibility chart” in their support section does not list *any* 5600 series CPUs, even though the product page does. It is not just a problem with the 5620s specifically.

Well, screw that. I’m not going to keep using their faulty and misleading product and spend a fortune on new CPUs (note that Intel CPUs cannot be returned once opened, as they are sealed and become unsaleable if the seal is broken). So, I’m switching to the SuperMicro X8DAL-i board, which SuperMicro assure me will support the 5620 CPUs as long as the board is revision 2.0 or higher. (earlier revisions will also support it but lose a couple of features and require a BIOS update that you can’t flash unless you have a spare Xeon 5500 lying around – the Rev. 2.0 boards come with all of the features and the supported BIOS out of the box)

I’m posting this message as a warning to anyone looking to buy a component from Tyan in the future. Their advertising is not just misleading but outright wrong, their products are faulty, and their support is terrible. Do not buy from them. Maybe if they lose enough business they will sort themselves out.

How (not) to NAS

Saturday, September 5th, 2009

This guide is a good way of doing an inexpensive to moderately priced NAS or SAN while delivering almost enterprise grade performance. The “not” in the title refers to my impatience waiting for a case and PSU to be delivered for 2 weeks.

NAS/SAN vs Drobo

Since I have been encoding all of my Blu-ray discs and DVDs for use over my LAN, I have used all of my hard drive space pretty quickly. Computers don’t perform well when they get down to around 10% free space (depending on the operating system). I tried to fix this problem by buying an incredibly overpriced Drobo but this slows down computers even when it has nothing on it (my computer hangs for about 4 minutes when trying to load the 16TB volume over USB and also adds the same amount of time to your boot up if you leave it plugged in). Add this to the insane price of £315 without any hard drives or network capability (to turn it from a DAS into a NAS you need to buy a DroboShare for an additional £140 and this still only gives you USB performance because that’s how it’s connected) and the fact that it has a lot of bugs that you can’t even see before you buy it because a serial number is required to access their community support and you end up with a big shiny black POS.

Compare this £450 lump to what you can build yourself for a NAS. I got a Gigabyte GA-MA785GT-UD3H motherboard (£75), which includes onboard graphics (VGA, DVI and HDMI ports), gigabit ethernet and 6 SATA 3gbps ports as well as an AM3 socket and DDR3 memory slots. I also got an AMD Athlon II X2 240 CPU (£45) and a 2GiB kit of Corsair XMS3 1333MHz 9-9-924 (£37). I would have gone all AM2 for about half the price but I couldn’t find any AM2 CPUs any more.

Any bootable USB stick is fine to put an embedded OS on (I use FreeNAS) and I’m using the Lycom UB-109 internal to external USB adapter to mount it directly onto the motherboard’s internal USB port, though just putting it in one of the rear USB ports would also be OK. This is just tidier and you don’t have to worry about it being pulled out by someone that thinks it was left there accidentally.

So far we are up to just £157 and only need a case and a PSU. If you were to go for a straight comparison, any old case that holds 4 hard drives would do and any 300W or so power supply would also be fine. However, it’s not hard to do better than that. As I have a small rack already, I got a 2U Chenbro RM23212 case (£217). This also meant I needed a 2U PSU. This is a rack mounted case that allows 12 3.5″ SAS/SATA hard drives to be hot swapped in the front. I found that prices for it varied wildly so I got the cheapest one I could find (still not cheap!). I assume this just means it comes with no PSU or backplane but both of those are fine by me, even if it means that hot swapping isn’t so hot. For the PSU I got a SuperMicro PWS-652-2H (£127.55). Also not cheap but I needed a PSU that could fit and potentially power 12 3.5″ hard drives.

That brings us neatly up to £500. £50 more than a Drobo with DroboShare but the same thing could easily be done much cheaper if rack mounts weren’t involved (probably around £200 – cheaper if you have some old parts lying around). You do get a lot more for the money though. As the hard drives are not included in the price of the Drobo, I have not included them here.

Storage

For hard drives, I got 4x 1TB Seagate 7200.11 drives. These were about £55 each and in my experience, transfer data dramatically faster than any other 7200rpm SATA drives. The reason that I only got 4 drives is that I am using ZFS and zpools on FreeNAS. It’s pretty much a form of software RAID so the CPU will be used but this is a NAS box – that’s all the CPU is there for. It means that I can create a raidz with single parity (essentially RAID5 without the write hole – dual parity RAID6 also exists as raidz2) for 4 drives, getting 75% of the space available for data and then add more raidz groups to the pool later. Note that it is still experimental in FreeBSD but the alternative is splashing out on massive RAID cards and either spending much more on RAID10 or dealing with the RAID5 write hole. The only other platform that supports ZFS at all is Solaris.

I could later add another 4x 1TB drives and then, when they are more economical, 4x 2TB drives. All of the drives in a single raidz have to be the same size but the sizes of the raidz groups do not have to match inside the zpool. After I have run out of space for adding new hard drives, I can replace the drives in the raidz and as soon as all 4 have been replaced it will grow to use the new space. This makes the possibilities for expansion almost unlimited. Because it is done in software, adding more drives can be done with either drive multipliers/expanders or dirt cheap RAID cards that have a lot of ports but no real processor or memory.

Getting impatient

I ordered the internal components from scan.co.uk and got them the next day. Two weeks later and I still don’t have a case (ordered from memory-express.co.uk) or PSU (ordered from pconestopshop.com). Needless to say, I will never be buying anything from either of them again. I’ve already called up about the case twice.

Getting desperate, as both of my hard drives are full as well as my MythTV/video encoding server, I continued anyway. I stole a PSU from my brother’s PC, which now looks like it’s been passed through a shredder with the amount of parts missing and cables hanging out. I didn’t use a case at all. I used a corsair dominator memory cooler and a big desk fan for cooling. I also laid out the hard drives separately to make sure heat didn’t build up and to avoid any short circuits.

This is how not to NAS. (use a case!)

badnas

Installing FreeNAS

I had major problems trying to install FreeNAS from CD. It seems to only want to install from the primary master IDE even though I was using a SATA drive. I tried using IDE emulation but still had problems unless I plugged it into one specific SATA port after trying all 6. I also had to try all of these with and without the real IDE turned on. There aren’t many things more annoying than loading an installer from a CD and then being told that you have no CD drive. In the end, it finally did find the CD drive but then wouldn’t let me install to the USB drive because it had already mounted it and put a config.xml on it (the default behaviour is to boot off the CD and just use the USB for some persistent storage). It wouldn’t let me unmount the USB drive either.

Another problem was that I was getting a panic: ohci_add_done error. I resolved this simply by unplugging the USB keyboard and plugging it into a PS/2 port. Strangely, removing the keyboard during boot and then plugging it in just when I needed it (to assign a network address) also worked.

The best way I found to install it to the USB drive was to put the CD and the USB drive in a Linux machine, gunzip the FreeNAS embedded image file and then use “dd” to image it on to the USB drive.

cp /media/cdrom/FreeNAS-amd64-embedded.gz .
gunzip FreeNAS-amd64-embedded.gz
dd if=FreeNAS-amd64-embedded of=/dev/sdb

where /dev/sdb was my USB drive – this is very important or you may wipe a hard drive.

I then just put the USB drive back in to the new machine and unplugged the CD drive’s SATA cable. It booted without further problems.

You may need to load the console and set an IP address for the network interface but after this you should not need the console again. If you do, you can always turn on SSH from the web GUI. I unplugged the keyboard and screen at this point.

Setting up these drives is incredibly easy. It can be done from the FreeNAS web UI but I used the following command:

zpool create datapool raidz ad4 ad6 ad8 ad10

Where ad4 to ad10 were my 4 hard drives set to AHCI mode in the BIOS.

Though they can be added later with a similar syntax, creating it with more than one raidz in the pool is also easy:

zpool create datapool raidz da1 da2 da3 da4 raidz da5 da6 da7 da8

You should “synchronize” the web UI after doing this under the ZFS tab, just so that it shows the correct information.

I then added a read-only samba share to /datapool/ and a read/write FTP with a user name and password, unchrooted (though chroot to /datapool would be ideal). This allows me to upload files to the NAS via password protected FTP while still allowing all of the computers in my house easy access to the files without needing user names and passwords and without being able to accidentally damage anything. I changed the file creation umask to 022 (default 077) so that files are created as 0644 and directories are created as 0755. To be honest, these seemingly inverted (XORed?) umasks confuse me but I just stick to 022 and find that ideal.

I get write speeds of roughly 65 to 90MB/s over FTP on copper gigabit Ethernet. The little Athlon II X2 CPU is very busy during these writes but out of the 2GiB of RAM, only a constant 30% is ever used. It is well known that the ZFS code on FreeBSD needs optimising so I will probably check back in the future and try a patch. This also means that write speeds could be increased by adding a faster CPU. I haven’t actually checked if it is using both cores at the moment (SMP) but I assume it is. ZFS performs better on 64bit apparently and that is what I am using. It is also possible that the client uploading the files was causing some bottleneck but I usually get 100 – 110MB/s between the two used.

In the future, I may add a second Ethernet card and use LAGG for load balancing. However, this only really helps for multiple concurrent clients and it requires a switch that supports it. I have a Dell PowerConnect 2716 switch (it was £160 with a £100 off deal at the time) which does support this.

Build a 1U firewall (or other server) for £200 (ish)

Sunday, July 5th, 2009

I decided to replace my ageing Dell 400 SC mini tower server with something slightly meatier that would fit in a 19″ rack.

This machine was already sitting in the rack but because it is a tower server, it was taking up almost 5U. I was using it as a pfSense hardware firewall.

A hardware firewall has very few requirements. At least two network interfaces are a must and some kind of visual output is probably needed for first time installation (assuming you cannot just use an embedded disk image install, as it did not work for me at all). Because it is 1U, as much as possible must be on the motherboard as there is only a single riser card expansion slot. Having an optical drive at hand may be useful but hopefully not necessary – I borrowed one from another machine for first time installation again because I couldn’t get any kind of embedded install to actually boot. You may be able to get a board with no VGA output and just use a temporary graphics card in the same way but some machines may not boot after the graphics card has been removed.

The motherboard I used was an Asus M3N WS. Asus are the best motherboard manufacturer by far and have been for quite a few years. Every time I use something else I immediately regret it. A few years ago, there were a lot of motherboards with two network interfaces but now there seem to be almost none. Desktop users just don’t need them (even though I’m using the second NIC on an Asus Striker Extreme in my main desktop computer to bridge my Xbox 360 to the Internet, as my dirt cheap but excellent ZyXEL GS-105A 5-port gigabit switch is in use by another server for now). This is an AM2+ motherboard but performance isn’t an issue so I went for the cheapest Athlon 64 I could find, a LE-1640 2.7GHz single core.

For a case, I went with an X-Case RM 100S. This is a rack mount (RM) case, 1U (100) and is the short version (S). I had previously used a RM 206LP as an excellent 2U MythTV server with space for 5 to 7 low-profile expansion cards. However, as always with X-Case, they are relatively cheap and have excellent ideas but they are executed incredibly poorly. Drills and drill-bits that can cut through metal will be required, as will screws and screw drivers of various sizes.

The good idea, with the 206LP is to offer many low-profile expansion card slots rather than just 2 riser cards. In something like a MythTV server which may require many expansion cards for TV tuners, this is a must and very few other companies offer low profile 2U servers at all. Other ones I could find were archaic and expensive, based around things like old AT motherboards. The problem for the 206LP was that fitting an ATX power supply into it that feeds air in from one end and blows it out the other is very difficult. I managed to find a decent PSU but immediately had to void its warranty to turn the fans around inside and also had to move the 4 internal case fans further back to fit it in. Luckily, I wasn’t using a full size ATX motherboard at the time (I was using an ATX board that only used 6 screws, not a micro ATX).

The 100S, however, has some different problems. Firstly, it is designed around a different PSU to the one that ships with it. This new PSU does not actually screw into the case properly. Secondly, the airflow is complete nonsense. They have 3 40mm fans where the PSU should be and a PSU where the fans should be. In a rack, all air should flow from the front, over the components and to the back. They claimed that the PSU didn’t fit at the back but as soon as those fans were removed, it had plenty of space. The PSU does not come with an 8-pin 12V supply like the video shows but to be honest I wouldn’t expect that from a 250W power supply in the first place and I’m surprised the one in the video had one. More of an issue is that the main 20/24 pin power supply is incredibly short and will probably not reach wherever it needs to get to on your motherboard regardless of placement, particularly as in a 1U case it cannot actually go over anything and must go around. I used a 20 to 24 pin adapter that I just happened to have (from some previous false advertising where a PSU was labelled as 20 but was actually 24, so I bought it for nothing).

X-Case also seems to delight in telling you that your case needs no rails but then not providing any screws that will hold it in place, so it is currently just sitting at the bottom of my rack not actually attached.

These fans could have been placed near the CPU on this particular motherboard and a passive cooler used. Just make sure the fins face the right way, which means moving the fans anyway in this case. However, I did not know this when I bought the thing, so I got an active cooler. The Dynatron A48G did blow out very nicely over the northbridge though and lined up perfectly.

For storage, had intended to use the Lycom UB-109 but I grossly overestimated the size of a 1U server so I could have cut this in half but instead I decided to just use the rear USB bracket that came with the motherboard instead. A 256MB thumb drive is fine for pfSense but other servers may need more. I bought an 8GiB just because it was almost the same price. Either way, just remember to disable swap space in the installation to avoid frequent writes. Swap is not needed if you have enough memory and the 1GiB of corsair 800 MHz DDR2 I had lying around was plenty.

If you are going to use a USB drive to boot an operating system, you should probably get a drive with a high read speed. The drive I am using currently takes several minutes just to load the ramdisk of FreeBSD 7 (pfSense is based on FreeBSD).

Total cost:
X-Case RM 100S – £79.00
AMD Athlon 64 LE-1640 – £23.38
Asus M3N WS – £54.70
Dynatron A48G – £30.00

Add in the cost of the USB thumb drive and cheap stick of memory to round it up to £200.

DSC01715

In this particular case, it would probably be better to cut off the metal by the fans entirely and drill a new hole so that the fans can be mounted closer to the CPU and memory. However, I am lazy.

Over packaged.

Friday, June 26th, 2009

And the award for the most ridiculously over packaged piece of hardware goes to … *drum roll*

The Lycom UB-109 internal to external USB adapter (scan).

overpackaged

And no, nothing else was in the box. Just this, cardboard and bubble wrap.

The main purpose of the box seems not to be to protect the contents but rather to repeatedly post random branding such as the logos for eSATA, SATA, SAS, PCI-X, PCI-Express, FireWire, etc even though they clearly have nothing to do with this product whatsoever.

New RAM

Monday, June 8th, 2009

The new RAM for my latest server (a Dell 2950 2U) arrived today, taking its total capacity up to 16GiB. I also replaced my 4GiB of DDR2 800MHz C4 Corsair XMS 2 Pro (with the activity LEDs) in my desktop with 8GiB of DDR2 1066MHz C5 Corsair Dominator, as I could not find any 1333MHz DDR2 (it’s all DDR3 now).

16 GiB of Server RAM

The model number is HYMP125F72CP8N3-Y5